Customer Reviews
This is some system 
2008-04-22
Even after several years I haven't used all the gadgets. I cant say enough for the basic system. Nothing, absolutely nothing even comes close to the ease, accuracy and longevity of a pocket joint. If you are thinking about making face frames or just joining two pieces of wood together, this is the tool you need to buy next!
Great Product 
2008-03-10
For the serious woodworker this is a must have! For the hobbiest definitely add this to your collection.
This is a very well thought out and manufactured product. It is easy to learn and use.
Even though it doesn't say it in the manual, do no make the same mistake I did and assume the drill bit must pass all the way through the wood. If it does you will end up with a hole in the jig.
Defintely purchase the Kreg self tapping screws. They're not expensive, and will remove any doubt that the joint will hold.
Better than the K2000, which is also great 2008-02-27
I have been a happy Kreg K2000 owner for several years. As such, I find the beauty of the Kreg jigs to be their tight, nearly invisible joints for things like face frames and edge banding, and the strength of the joints they form from a structural standpoint. Screws in a ton of sizes and types are widely available as well, which makes these jigs even more useful.
For the price, I can't envision a better way to supplement your wood joinery capabilities than the K3MS, especially if you don't already own a Kreg jig. I've used mine for everything from furniture work with oak plugs to construction that doesn't have to look nice, just be strong. It works well for both. The most significant upgrade in the K3 over the K2 is the chip-collection capability. It's remarkable how quickly you can fill a work area with chips using a pocket-hole jig. I have also found the pivoting clamp pocket on the back of the three-hole jig body very useful when clamping it directly to a piece of plywood or other large work surface. It makes jig alignment fast and easy, and that translates to faster, better-quality work.
Other than these feature upgrades, if you're already a K2 user you probably won't find much value in the K3. But if you don't own a Kreg jig already, the K3MS is an outstanding way to spend less than $150 upgrading your woodshop!
Great Kit, Works excellent, A+++ 2008-02-27
I'm no carpenter at all. So I learned a lot and this tool is simple to use. Thanks, Larry
Works Well for Constructing Wooden Skateboard Ramp 2008-02-20
I am teaching my boy how to do woodworking by building a quarter-pipe ramp out of two-by-fours, two-by-sixes, and plywood. By chance I decided to check out this pocket hole system after being suggested by Amazon. After reviewing the promotional video clip, I decided to try it out on this project. I found that using this pocket hole system has made it easier to fasten the frame pieces together than screwing deck screws through the board faces. The only problem I encountered so far has been drilling pocket hole consistently into a couple of 1/2 thick pine boards. On the other hand, I would not have had any other way to fasten together very well such thin boards using screws. But, the system works great to fasten two-by-fours and the two-by sixes.
Great addition to shop 2008-05-29
This is somthing I have wanted for awhile and now I can do more and better things in my shop. Grat product and easy to set up.
Great, but with a few problems 2008-05-27
Kreg did a great job with this jig, but there are a few important things to keep in mind if you're thinking about doing pocket hole joinery; Things that I learned the hard way so I thought I'd share my experience.
First of all, forget about using pocket holes in MDF, Particle board, Melamine coated particle board, fiber board, etc. The screws enter too close to the edge for these materials and they just disintegrate.
Also, if you're going to be joining plywood, remember that plywood is rarely sold by actual thickness. For instance, 1/2" plywood is really 7/16" thick these days. And that 1/16" does make a difference with pocket hole joinery. The 1" screws that you're supposed to use with 1/2" material might poke out the other side if you're not careful. You can compensate for this somewhat by setting the drill depth, but you have to remember to do this and not just go with the 1/2" settings. I didn't have this problem with 3/4" material, even though it too is not really 3/4" thick.
You might want to consider buying some of the clamps they sell for doing pocket hole joinery Kreg RAC Right Angle Clamp, Kreg Standard Face Clamp. It's almost impossible to get a good joint without them. When possible, I'll tack the pieces together with brads and then drive the pocket screws, but you have to have something holding the pieces firmly together before driving the screws or it just won't work right.
If you're thinking about hooking up your shop vac to the jig, you'll probably need some sort of adapter. I wish these things were more standardized. This jig requires something like a 1 1/2" hose, my shop vac is 2 1/2".
Don't let this review scare you away from pocket hole joinery. It's quick, it's easy and it works if you know what its limitations are. And Kreg did do a great job with this jig. Well worth the price of admission.
Great system 2008-05-25
I owned the older version of the Kreg pocket hole jig. Although it works fine, the new version made some helpful improvements. The holding mechanism is greatly improved. The locking clamp now has two large pads instead of the older system that has one large pad and one small one (although there is a place for both, if your two pieces of wood are slightly different thickness, you can better control the pressure and alignment with the old one). The vacuum port is nice, but I needed an adapter to connect it to my Festool vacuum.
Great tool to have 2008-05-22
Face frames, cabinet joinery, and many other uses make this a diverse tool for your shop. The first time I ever used any kind of pocket hole equipment, and it worked flawlessly.
My first project was creating a custom transition from one room to another with a 2" difference in height. Instead of breaking out the biscuit joiner, marking and cutting BOTH pieces, gluing, then clamping, just cut all your pieces, use the extremely easy jig and drill some holes and you're nearly there. All that's left is to add a little glue, and screw it together!
The kit includes everything you need to set up your shop for production type drilling, as well as a jig and clamp to use in the field or on awkward pieces.
Disappointing results in dense cabinet hardwood 
2008-04-24
I was excited to start using my new Kreg jig when I got it and was immediately disappointed when the mating 1 1/2 x 3/4 inch hickory face frame split when I drove in the screws. I thought it was just a bad coincidence, but then the other end split too. So I think I'm doing something wrong and open the manual where it assures you that no pre-drilling is needed and specifically names hickory and maple as examples. Obviously this isn't true, so I set out to pre-drill the holes in the next joints. I put the screw in just so it marks the matting piece and then back the screw out. Pilot the hole then drive the screw back in. Now I'm thinking this is not a time saving device as advertised. This time on the second screw, it snaps off in the middle. I think well maybe it was a weak screw and maybe I over worked it until three screws later another one snaps off. I've got to tell you, save your money and your time on this thing unless you are planning on using less dense wood or wider face frames. With all the fiddling around to pilot drill the matting pieces it is much quicker to use a biscuit joiner with FF biscuits.
